What a rat problem tends to look like.
Rats are larger and braver than mice. Their droppings are about the size of a big grain of rice or larger, tooth marks on wood and plastic are broad, and runways appear as greasy lines along a wall or fence. Noise tends to be heavy steps and dragging overhead after dark.
Two species dominate across the Pacific Northwest. Norway rats dig and stay low, near foundations and beneath decks, while roof rats climb and favor the upper parts of a building. The species chosen decides where traps go and which openings get sealed first.
The yard is where the trail begins.
A rat rarely appears inside without a route from outdoors. Limbs touching the roof, cables, fences and dense vegetation along the foundation all work as bridges. A lot with tall trees or thick brush can offer many of these at once.
If your property backs onto green ground such as the Clear Creek Trail corridor or the woods beside Silverdale Waterfront Park, tell us which side of the lot faces it. That side is walked first, and it often shows a path worn into the ground.
- Piles of firewood, lumber or pallets resting against walls.
- Compost bins without a base, and fruit left on the ground.
- Bird feed spilled beneath a feeder.
- Chicken or pet food stored in open bags.
Trapping that matches the animal.
Rats are wary, so traps are set where they already travel and are often left unbaited for a day so the animals grow used to them. Placement along a wall or fence beats placement in the open, and a station near a burrow does the most work.
Everything is logged by location so that no trap is forgotten when the job ends. Details of the trapping process are on the trapping and removal page.
Closing what a rat can use.
Rats widen a gap by gnawing it, so foam and wood are poor choices. Our technician uses flashing, hardware cloth and sealant around vents, soffit edges, pipe sleeves and the base of garage doors. Bigger openings may take a second visit, and the exclusion page covers the materials.
| Likely entry. | Typical fix. | Reason it matters. |
|---|---|---|
| Gap between soffit and wall. | Metal flashing and mesh. | Roof rats reach the attic from branches. |
| Burrow beside a slab edge. | Fill, compact and screen the area. | Norway rats tunnel toward a warm foundation. |
| Pipe sleeve through a crawlspace wall. | Metal collar and sealant. | A short route from soil into the floor system. |
| Door sweep worn away on a shed. | Replace the sweep and kick plate. | Sheds are a staging ground for the house. |
Mouse or rat? You need not settle that before calling. Tell us what you saw and we will figure out the answer with you.
Ring (888) 686-4821Timing and follow-up.
Rat work usually takes more than one visit. After the first round of trapping and sealing, we come back to check catches, test seals and decide what cleanup is needed. If insulation or ducting is soiled, cleanup for attics and crawlspaces comes after the entries are shut.
Safety steps for waste and nests
General information only, taken from federal public health pages, and your own doctor outranks it on health questions.
- Put away the compressed air, the broom and the dry rag whenever you find pellets or stained nesting.
- Closed-up rooms hold stale air, so open the doors and windows and stay out for about half an hour.
- Keep your hands covered for the whole task, then scrub.
- Dampen each pellet and stain with disinfectant and let it stand about five minutes before picking anything up.
- Droppings and wipes go in a bag that closes tight, and skin never meets a dead animal.
- We say nothing about anyone's health. If fever, aches or labored breathing come after contact with waste, see a physician.
Where the safety advice comes from
Follow the links for the original wording, which has no company behind it and no sales angle.
- Cleaning Up After Rodents, from the CDC: A wet-cleaning routine for homes, with the reasoning given beside every step.
- Hantavirus Prevention, from the CDC: Source for the sealing and tidying suggestions you will find here.